It is hard for the layman to appreciate the intricacies involved in a diamond setter’s work. Painstaking effort and consistent precision goes into making a jewel gleam to best effect, no matter what setting it happens to be put in. However, each demands a slightly different approach from the next.
Prong or Claw
To make sure a prong or claw setting is executed masterfully, the diamond setter must be capable of correctly placing the diamond within a metal claw. The prong can be pointed, round, or V-shaped, depending on how big the stone is.
With halo settings, the center diamonds needs to remain the main focus. A master diamond setter works to expertly place micro settings surrounding the stone so that it appears larger.
Bezel or Tube
In the case of a bezel setting, the stone gets secured within a slim metal rim, which is called the tube or bezel. The setting should be able to protect the diamond, and to create it, the diamond setter uses carbide burrs which can cut through the metal.
Diamonds set in a channel are laid out in a row with metal on both sides. The diamond setter needs to ensure these are placed correctly and without seams in between, or gaps from the channel sides.
The goal here is to make sure the tiny metal beads hold the small diamonds securely. It is easy to see why this setting is hard to work into a ring, not to mention time consuming. Each diamond is set with the intended visual effect of an encrusted stone.
Here, the tension from two metal bands holds the center diamond in place. From the diamond setter’s side, it is vital to get the size exactly right using a laser. After the measurements check out, tiny grooves are cut into the band on the sides, using the resulting pressure to secure the stone.
Also called the micro-prong setting, the micro demands substantial skill and focus from the diamond setters if they want to get it right. The diamond setter secures the diamonds inside a tiny prong, and while doing this, needs to aim at achieving an encrusted look in the finished ring.
Swiss or Gypsy
This setting suit men more than women, for the simple reason that it does not prop the diamond above the level of the band’s outer surface. It offers maximum security for the gemstone by fully covering its girdle.